Do-it-yourself acrylic bathtub installation: detailed installation instructions

The advantage of acrylic baths is lightness, however, this moment is also a disadvantage of them, since a sufficiently fragile and thin structure can not withstand and burst when struck or damaged by the fall of a heavy object. Therefore, the installation must take into account all possible nuances.

Installing an acrylic bath with your own hands can be done in several ways, which will be discussed in this article.

Advantages and disadvantages of acrylic baths

Acrylic baths are very beautiful, have an original design and a variety of colors. At the same time, they have their weaknesses and vulnerabilities.

Therefore, it will not be out of place to find out what problems you may encounter during installation and the next operation after it, and how to prevent them.

Color Acrylic Bathtub
The unusual colored acrylic bathtub will become a bright and original element,able to decorate the interior of any bathroom

Among the advantages can be identified:

  • Plastic.Acryl well gives in to molding and the subsequent processing. This property of the material determines the presence of a huge variety of forms of acrylic bowls.
  • LightnessAcrylic bath has a small weight (15-25 kg), so one adult man can easily cope with its installation.
  • Priority heat engineering.Acrylic itself is a warm material. In addition, it has low thermal conductivity, acrylic baths are able to retain heat for a long time, the water in them cools much more slowly than in cast-iron structures.
  • Maintainability. Plumbing and general products made of acrylic work well for repair and restoration. If the damage is significant, then you can restore the bath using an acrylic liner, which is made for a specific design, and then simply inserted into the old container.

As for the shortcomings, they are also present. We should not forget about the drawbacks of acrylic products. Following the recommendations below will help avoid potential problems and extend the life of the acrylic bath.

  • Sensitivity to high. Acrylic does not withstand very high temperatures. When heated above 60 degrees it can deform, so do not pour too hot water into the bath.
  • Fragility.If you accidentally drop a heavy metal object into the bath, a step, like an uneven surface, its bottom can be pierced through.
  • Vulnerability.Acrylic baths can not be rubbed with hard brushes, wash with powders containing abrasives, because the enamel is very susceptible and can easily be scratched from the effects of hard particles.

And it should be noted, if not a disadvantage, then the inconvenience faced by one who first fell into an acrylic bath. Due to the fineness of the material, the bottom may sag slightly under the weight of a person. However, you quickly get used to this feature of the acrylic bath.

Image Gallery
Photos of
Acrylic bath spectacular configuration
Acrylic bath spectacular configuration
New version of acrylic bath with improved formula
New version of acrylic bath with improved formula
Stylish bathtub with a classic rectangular bowl
Stylish bathtub with a classic rectangular bowl
Acrylic bath with hydromassage equipment
Acrylic bath with hydromassage equipment
Non-standard plumbing equipment
Non-standard plumbing equipment
Priority faucets for acrylic plumbing
Priority faucets for acrylic plumbing
Stylization under the traditional cast-iron bath
Stylization under the traditional cast-iron bath
The general principle of installation of an acrylic bowl on the frame
The general principle of installation of an acrylic bowl on the frame

Acrylic bath mounting methods

There are several options for installing an acrylic bath. The easiest way is to mount on the legs, which are pre-installed on the slats, and then attached to the bottom of the bathroom with three or four self-tapping screws.

The installation process includes a series of standard steps:

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Photos of
Stage 1: preparation of the mounting strip under the legs
Stage 1: preparation of the mounting strip under the legs
Stage 2: Attaching the Feet and Assembling the Bath Siphon
Stage 2: Attaching the Feet and Assembling the Bath Siphon
Stage 3: fixing the legs and foaming the bowl outside
Stage 3: fixing the legs and foaming the bowl outside
Stage 4: Connecting and Adjusting Feet Position
Stage 4: Connecting and Adjusting Feet Position

However, this option can not be called reliable, because the bath is kept only on four racks, while its sides remain unsupported. In addition, the bottom when bathing the face of the fat build will sag heavily, which is also not very nice.

Acrylic bathtubs with thin walls require a stronger support, which is usually used as:

  1. Massive metal frame made of thick shaped tube, manufactured in factory conditions.
  2. Brick masonry, built under the bottom of the bath.
  3. Support legs and bricks at the same time.

Often the choice of the installation option depends on the configuration. The best way to install is to mount on the factory frame, but not all manufacturers complete the bath with a metal frame.

Foot bath
A foot bath only is not a sturdy construction. This type of installation can significantly reduce its service life.

As a rule, inexpensive products are sold either with legs, or without a mounting kit at all. The frame can be purchased separately. You can install a bath on the bricks, which is also a reliable type of fastening.

Easy way to repair acrylic bath
The easiest way to repair an old acrylic bath is to install a liner that duplicates damaged vessel walls

# 1: Place the bowl on the legs

Installation of an acrylic bath on legs is permissible only for standard rectangular structures. In other cases, choose another installation method.

Having turned the bath upside down, step back 4 cm from the edge of the reinforcing plate and mark the middle. Find the center of the mounting plates and align it with the middle of the bath. Mark the attachment points, drill holes in the bottom and secure the straps with self-tapping screws.

Mounting kit
The assembly kit includes two metal strips, four legs with pins, fastening to the wall, screws and nuts. When installing the bath should be used only screws, included in the kit, specially selected sizes. Longer fasteners can damage the bottom

To fasten the legs, a rod with a lock nut is inserted into the hole in the bar and secured with another nut. Then the adjustable plastic legs with thrust bearings are screwed onto the stud.

Now you need to turn the bath, put it on the legs and adjust their height so that the design was exactly without distortions. We carry out this operation with the help of a building level.

Layout bath under the legs
In order for the bath to stand smoothly, it is necessary to correctly mark up and mark with a pencil the places of fastening the slats in which the mounting holes are provided

To fix the structure, the bath bezel is put on the special mounting plates included in the scope of delivery, which are screwed to the wall. To determine where the mounts will be located, place the bath against the wall and mark the edge of its side with a line.

The top edge of the plate should be approximately 4 mm below the mark. For standard tubs, four mounts are usually made in length and two in width. Screw the plates at the marking points.

Fixing the bath to the wall
The plates are screwed in such a way that there is space for the boards between them and the wall. To install the bath, it is necessary to lift above the fasteners, and then put her beads on the plate

# 2: Metal frame mounting

This method of installing an acrylic bath is somewhat more complicated and takes more time, but it is also more reliable. Frameworks are developed by manufacturers for a particular model and, as a rule, are sold in the kit. For standard rectangular designs, you can purchase the frame separately.

Acrylic Bath Frames
Each bath has its own frame, which takes into account the shape, size, geometry of the product and the distribution of loads. The assembly of each design has its own nuances, which are described in detail in the accompanying instructions.

The main element of the frame is the frame, which is then attached to the rest of the design details. Often, the package includes a frame welded in the factory, but not always.In some cases, it will have to be assembled independently according to the manual attached to the product.

The frame is placed on an inverted bath, and in this position they begin to assemble the entire frame, successively securing the remaining parts. The package includes racks, studs, plastic legs with thrust bearings, nuts, screws and wall mounts. The number of parts depends on the size and shape of the bath, the more complex the design, the more elements.

To fix the vertical stand, a stud with a twisted nut is inserted into the corner hole of the frame, and then inserted into the rack and screwed into it. The top of the stud is fixed with another nut. Thus, all frame racks are installed.

Mounting frame racks
When screwing in the studs, leave a small distance between the frame and the stand to adjust the height of the frame.

When all the racks are bolted, it is necessary to set the frame exactly, adjusting its height and checking the installation accuracy with a building level. Next, the frame is screwed with screws to the bath. First, the frame is attached to the reinforced bottom plate, and then the racks are fixed in the corners of the bath where the inserts are located.

Now it remains to fasten the legs to the frame. In the places where they should be, holes are made where the studs are first screwed in and fastened to the correct height with nuts. Then they are fastened with plastic feet with thrust bearings.

If you purchased an acrylic bath with a screen, then on the legs, which will be located on the outside, metal l-shaped plates are additionally inserted to fasten the screen.

Mounting feet on the frame
L-shaped plate is fixed with nuts in the center of the legs. If necessary, the height can be adjusted by tightening the nuts in one direction or the other.

Turn the bath over, put a screen on it and adjust the height of the structure with the nuts on the legs. Place it on the wall and mark the places where the wall mounts will be located. Screw them on and fix the sides of the bath onto the plates as described above.

Once again, attach the screen to the bath, mark the screen attachment points at the edges and in the center of the bath and screw the plates there with screws, which are supplied. Fix the screen on all plates, including those that were previously screwed to the legs.

Seal the joints of the acrylic bath with a wall of silicone sealant. To do this, first clean both surfaces of dust, and then degrease with alcohol. Stick the construction tape on the wall and sides of the bath, apply an even layer of silicone, and then wet your finger with a soap solution and smooth it.

Sealing joints between the bathroom and the wall
Joints can be sealed with waterproof foam, and then after it dries, cut the protruding layer with a clerical knife

# 3: Option with a brick pillar

If you purchased an acrylic bathtub in which there is neither a frame, nor legs, and at the same time you do not want to burden yourself with additional expenses, that’s okay. It is possible to solve this problem, if not completely free, then very inexpensive.

To do this, you will need several bricks, some cement, a metal (preferably aluminum) corner for fixing the bath to the wall and sanitary silicone to seal the joints. Your task is to create two brick supports on which the bath is then installed.

The brickwork is made from two sides of the acrylic bath in such a way that the bottom reinforcement plate rests firmly on two brick supports.Depending on the required height of the bath and the location of the sewer inlet, two or three rows of bricks are laid out. The solution should consist only of cement (1 part) and sand (3 parts), or you can buy an inexpensive masonry adhesive composition.

Making brickwork
Bricks are stacked on a thin layer of mortar. During operation, it is necessary to constantly monitor the horizontal level of both supports in order to avoid bath skew

After two rows of bricks are laid out, wait for the cement to set and put an acrylic bath on them. If you are satisfied with the height, mark the level of the sides of the bath on the wall, and then attach a metal corner by marking and apply a silicone compound to it.

Lay a layer of cement on the brick foundations and place the bath on top, lowering its sides on a corner and sliding tightly against the wall. Do not forget to remove the released silicone from the sides and remove an extra solution from under it a maximum of half an hour after the installation of the bath.

There is another way to install an acrylic bath on bricks, which consists in creating a kind of pedestal on which the bowl will stand. In this case, the bottom of the bath can be installed directly on the bricks, and you can pre-fix the legs and build a brick foundation under them.

Pre-masonry is made as described above with the only difference that between the bricks do not leave space, and is one solid basis. Further, if a bath without legs is installed on the pedestal, it is necessary to lay two metal strips on the bricks and place a bowl on them.

This is done so that between the brickwork and the acrylic bath there is a gap of about 1 cm, where then, after the mortar is completely cured, the mounting foam will be blown to fix the bowl. If the tub is pre-screwed legs, then in this case, everything is simple: it is installed above the foundation, the legs are adjusted to the desired height, then the foam blows out

Installing a bathroom on bricks
The acrylic bathtub is installed on a metal profile, which lies freely on a brick base, and is attached to the wall on aluminum corners or metal hooks. The space between it and the bricks is blown out by building foam. To ensure optimal pressure on the foam, it is recommended to fill the bath with water.

Sealing joints between the wall and the board of the bath

Silicone sealant, with which you treated the joints between the wall and the acrylic bath, is a good thing, but insufficient. No matter how tight the design is against the wall, the cracks still remain.In hardware stores you can buy a special tape. It sits on silicone and is mounted on the wall and sides of the bath. In addition to complete tightness, it gives the design an aesthetic and complete look.

You can also seal joints with plastic corners. Their edges are equipped with rubber inserts that prevent the ingress of water. There are many baseboards of various shapes, colors and designs that allow you to choose a product for any bathroom interior.

Finishing bath baseboard
Plastic corner provide full tightness of the joints, and allows you to hide minor defects and irregularities. To make an even angle, it is necessary to cut the lower parts of the plinth at a 45 degree angle.

The corners are attached to the bath and the walls with the help of silicone, which is applied to surfaces that have been previously degreased with alcohol. It is recommended to fill the bath with water before applying it and leave it filled until the sealant is completely dry. If this is not done, then in the future it may appear microcracks.

Siphon assembly and sewer connection

We brought this paragraph to the end of the article in order to describe in detail the process and nuances of connecting siphon equipment to an acrylic bath.However, this work must be done immediately after installing the legs or frame, before installing the screen and before the final fixing of the bath to the wall and brickwork.

As a rule, the siphon is supplied unassembled. A large number of randomly arranged parts, at first glance, may even frighten a person who was first confronted with connecting a bath. However, in the accompanying instructions, everything is described in detail and shows how the siphon is assembled, so the assembly does not cause any particular difficulties.

Siphon grade
Disassembled siphon is a set of various parts. The figure shows the general assembly scheme and the sequence of fastening the siphon elements (+)

The installation of the siphon begins with the connection of the receiving pipe (4) and the protective grid (2) to the lower outlet of the bath. Before this, the joints need to be treated with a sealant and put a rubber gasket (3) inside, on top of which a layer of sealant is also applied. Then, without waiting for drying, the branch pipe is inserted into the lower part of the bath.

Next, the already assembled flexible hose (16) is inserted into the overflow outlet (13), and the other end with a pre-installed gasket (18) is connected to the upper opening of the bath and secured with the protective overflow grating (19).

Siphon assembly
It looks like a fully assembled siphon. To avoid leakage during operation, it is very important to install gaskets correctly, which, even with a slight bias, can move and deform.

Then that part of the siphon which is connected to the sewer pipe is assembled. All joints are treated with sealant. When assembling the siphon, try not to overtighten the threaded connections, as this may cause deformation and breakage of the plastic parts.

Methods for the exterior of acrylic bath

If you purchased an acrylic bath without a decorative screen, then this part can be made with your own hands.

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Brick walls to stabilize the position
Brick walls to stabilize the position
A standard way to close the bath - decorative screen
A standard way to close the bath - decorative screen
Tiled exterior brick wall
Tiled exterior brick wall
Front panel for acrylic bath
Front panel for acrylic bath

However, there are certain requirements for the installation and the choice of material for its production, which must be taken into account in the work, it is:

  • It is possible to use only moisture-resistant materials that are resistant to temperature extremes, not subject to the formation of mold and fungus.
  • Quick and easy access to communications under the structure should be provided.

In that case, if the bath is installed on the bricks, it is possible to lay a brick wall on the half-brick thick and then revet it with ceramic tile or mosaic on the front. The top row of bricks is made 2-3 cm below the side of the bathroom, and then it is blown with foam to seal. It is also necessary to leave the technological hole, and then with the help of awnings to make the door.

Brick frame under the bath
When building a brick wall can not make it a support for the bath. Be sure to leave an empty space between the board and the top of the brickwork at least 2 cm

The acrylic bath finish is very popular plastic, MDF or moisture resistant plasterboard. Plastic panels allow you to quickly and inexpensively make a finished facing bath. In addition, if the panel has become unusable, it can be easily replaced.

As for drywall, after installation, it can be finished with different materials: tiles, waterproof wallpaper, pasted over with a film or put decorative plaster. In both cases, you must first make a frame from a metal profile or wooden beam.In this case, the metal must be treated with an anti-corrosion compound, and wood - with a moisture-resistant primer.

Wooden bath frame
Plastic or MDF panels can be laid on the wooden frame, as well as the gypsum board can be fastened and then lined with various finishing materials.

To make a frame made of wood, install boards around the perimeter of the bath, which will serve as the base, and screw them with screws to the floor. Make vertical posts in the corners, attach the upper horizontal plank to them using metal corners and install additional vertical posts in increments of 50-60 cm.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The assembly of the frame and the installation of a bath with a plastic screen are described in the following video:

Video instruction on how to properly assemble the factory metal frame for an acrylic bath:

Acrylic bathtubs of angular, round or asymmetric shape are installed only on the factory metal frame. Manufacturers attach detailed instructions, according to which any man will be able to cope with this work independently. However, it is better to entrust the installation of a hydromassage bath to specialists, since it requires the connection of complex electrical equipment.

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